Looks shot to me!

The old deck.....

First, notice what a great job the factory did in laying out the symmetry of their deck...One continuous board has part of the hatch eclipsed so that a narrow little strip is hanging perilously to the edge of the hatch!  Ok, ok, I'll stop beating up the factory already.  Maybe one of the distinctions between factories and craftsmen is the differing views about "the bottom line".

Before you begin ripping out the old deck, take a few minutes to study the old one.  Make some notes about what does and doesn't work, what could be made to work and look better.  If the old deck has a revile moulding all the way around, (Usually applied on top of the deck where it meets a vertical plane, seldom bedded or epoxied, and always source of trapped water), would a drain race look better?  And allow the deck to dry properly?  And not be a problem area when you have to resurface every year or two?  What about bungs?  Are you going to screw the deck down?  Screws and bungs are a sure way for water to find it's way into the sub floor or deck.  Are they going to pop out?  Can I use less adhesive under the teak by using screws?  What about water trapped between the teak and sub deck where no adhesive grabbed both surfaces? Hmmmmmmm......??

Answering questions like these before hand can make a big difference in the final appearance and functionality of your deck.  Frankly, I like sleeping with a clear conscience, not wondering if cost and corner cutting is going to shorten the life of the deck or cause me to have to redo some or all of the job!

Ok, now that you know some of the things that shouldn't be done and have an idea of how to do it better, let's get on with ripping that old puppy out!