Best additive for e10

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Buju
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Best additive for e10

Post by Buju »

I'm sure it's been discussed prior, and I looked a little but couldn't find it...

What would be the best gasoline additive to prevent phase seperation, and just keep my gas "happy"? This has nothing to do with glass fuel tanks. I'm talking about my older outboard ('92 e-rude) powered skiff, pressure washer, etc. Fuel will not sit for more than a month at a time between uses.

It is my understanding that besides seperation, the problem w/ older outboards is the rubber used in gaskets, and lines will deteriorate from the ethanol, and accumulate in the carbs, etc... true?

SO, is this able to be remedied?

I picked up a small container of Marine Sta-bil from Napa for $28. I thought it seemed like a better product than the Starbrite Star-tron sitting next to it on the shelf... but I have no idea.

Any insight appreciated.
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Good question!
Rawleigh
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

Is it possible the faithful doesn't have an answer for this?

Probably more likely that there isn't an additive to prevent the rubber gasket & fuel line breakdown... Can anyone verify that this is indeed the problem with older outboards and other small engines?
I guess I could ask the local OB shops... or find out if they have upgrade kits for the gaskets and lines....
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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Skipper Dick
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Post by Skipper Dick »

When my weed whacker went tango uniform, I took it into a small engine repair and the owner told me that they were swamped with similar repairs due to the ethanol. He said he had to send a couple of his top guys to class to learn of the effects of the stuff and then I said that there must be an additive one could add to the fuel. He said the only way was to buy gas with out the ethanol. That became near impossible then, but lately, I've found a couple of stations that have no ethanol.

There doesn't seem to be anything that will neutralize the alcohol that I've heard of.

Dick
1983 Bertram 28 FBC w/300 Merc Horizon
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Harv
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Post by Harv »

I used Startron and it didn't stop my tank from letting go and fukkin up my port engine. Dick Dean has been adding Marvel Mystery Oil to his tank for years, and it seems to be working for him.
Harv
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

Harv,
From what I understand the Star-tron is only for stopping the phase seperation... The Marie Stabil is also to stop the seperation, but also has corrosion inhibitors to remedy the water in the fuel- which should only happen if it fails to stop the seperation....or what?
MMO huh? I have used MMO for some pretty crazy small engine fixes in the past- it is kinda like CX in the aspect of being magic in a...jug? I don't think it'll neutralize the alcohol, but perhaps it'll leave a thin protective film on the rubber and give it a fighting chance?

Skipper,
What happened to the weedeater? Started running rough before it went tits up? Or no warning? Was it that rubber parts got deteriorated, and became particles in the fuel, which deposited on the carb, cylinder, etc? Or maybe internal corrosion from H20 accumulation in the fuel?

Appreciate the replies guys, anyone else have any experience with ethanol and their small engines?
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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John F.
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Post by John F. »

My weed-whacker and chainsaw both crapped out right after I used e-10 in them. The local repair guy has had alot of 'em in for repairs, and since mine were a little old and cheap to begin with, I'll get a new chainsaw next time I need one (and cheap again). I have a 2000 Johnson 90 hp on my Whaler, and its been fine on e-10 for a couple of years now. I just bought a B20 with a 1994 Yamaha 200 that was rebuilt, and its been run on e-10 on NY for a few years before I bought it and it runs great (the f'glass tank was replaced with aluminum). Thats it--I do use Startron. I have no idea if it works.
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Skipper Dick
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Post by Skipper Dick »

Buju,

The whacker had to have a new carb. The old one was gummed up from some thing the E10 disolved and it was all through the little chambers through out the carb. They weren't sure, but they thought it was some of the seal material. The new carb. has E10 proof seals, they said.

Dick
1983 Bertram 28 FBC w/300 Merc Horizon
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

Thanks Dick, thats what I figured & dreaded...
Just bought a new pressure washer last year, I sure hope they've been built using alcohol resistant materials in these engines. It'd be assinine not to...

John,
Encouraging about both the outboards. I'll raise a glass to that.
"here's to hope"
it's the last thing to go, right? (hope, that is)
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

I have heard 1993 bandied about as the year most seals were changed to be E10 proof. I have heard of the small engine nightmares myself. I dump all fuel out of them after each use and added fuel valves to those that I couldn't dump. I run the carbs dry and hope for the best. Does it work? Who knows!!
Rawleigh
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Wingnut
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Post by Wingnut »

All,

Not sure how you get 100 gallons of AVGAS to your Bert but I can tell you for sure, that all of my small equipment runs on 100LL Avgas. It works great, lasts forever, and contains no ethanol whatever.

I use it in the weed whacker, large and small chainsaws, log splitter, lawnmower, and snow blower. No problems! 2 stroke or 4 stroke no worries. Be aware that it does contain a fair amount of lead. The low lead designation is relative to the old 130 (MMmmm purple) octane!

JD
Peter
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Post by Peter »

I do not know of any additive that can prevent phsae seperation.

There is a real problem whenchanging from non ethanol fuel to E-10. The amount of gunk buildup is much more with a mix (apparently) than with one or the other.

If your stuff was running on non-eth fuel, run it dry befoe fueling with E-10.

Also run it out dry before storing for long periods of time to avoid (won't prevent) phase separation.

Peter
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In Memory Walter K
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Post by In Memory Walter K »

The ability (and safety factor) in allowing your tank to run dry, to say nothing of the bottom gunk being sucked into your carbs/injectors is rare. If you're in a marina, fuel removal is almost impossible. If you're on a trailer, you can pull it out, but then what? Randall and I went to our Town Supervisor looking for a legal way to get rid of 50+ gallons of gasoline each 2 yrs ago and found no help. We both had cans of gas behind our houses all winter. I ended up pouring it a little at a time into our dump's old engine oil tank. Not very nice, but when you can't do it legally, you have to get creative. I hate to think how many gallons have been dumped in the woods and found its way into our water table. Stupid laws managed by even stupider people. Vote em all out!
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