Max Wax as antifouling

The Main Sand Box for bertram31.com

Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce

Post Reply
JackW
Posts: 16
Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 22:42
Location: Massachusetts

Max Wax as antifouling

Post by JackW »

Hi,
I know awhile ago people were going to try the Maxwax on running gear and Outdrives. Anyone have any results of the tests?? I'm getting ready
and will do it if recommended.
If not this what would you recommend for I/O outdrives? I hate to paint them as they still look pretty new. ( at least using that flat black paint)
Thank you all in advance for the feedback.
Thanks,
Jack
User avatar
ZeroCavity
Senior Member
Posts: 204
Joined: Jul 10th, '06, 14:36
Location: Naples, FL

Post by ZeroCavity »

1965/2007 Bertram 31
User avatar
In Memory Walter K
Senior Member
Posts: 2912
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:25
Location: East Hampton LI, NY
Contact:

Post by In Memory Walter K »

My starboard side faces west in my slip. The chine sits an inch into the water at the stern due to the Cummins and the heavy teak deck. The constant sunshine causes a growth of grasses at that edge that becomes a nusance to fight with all season. This season I applied Max Wax on that chine edge. The good news is it has retarded the growth and what growth there is seems to be easily removed. The bad news is the wax turns white under water, and on a blue boot stripe ain't great. I suspect that wouldn't matter on running gear. I used to use the clear spray anti-fouling paint for many years. No longer available. Brewster Minton suggested multiple sprayings of PAM. I was going to try it but the marina surprised me and had the boat in the slings when I went to do it...so I quickly Max Waxed my running gear too. Walter
User avatar
Rawleigh
Senior Member
Posts: 3434
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 08:30
Location: Irvington, VA

Post by Rawleigh »

I got jammed up on applying mine last year too. I just sprayed it on a few hours before splash. Only one coat. I had the best luck using the two layer system s that Interlux and Pettit sell. First layer is a chlorinated rubber primer (orange in color) followed by the two part metal primer. The bottom paint is applied over that. It lasted for two years last time I did it!!! The copper stayed on the running gear and was not killed by electrolysis. After two full years in the water I only had several small barnacles at the prop blade roots where cavitation wore it off. The paint was still on the prop blades!! Like I said, I got jammed up last year and didn't get to reapply that system. you need to follow the recoat schedule in the instructions closely.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
JackW
Posts: 16
Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 22:42
Location: Massachusetts

Post by JackW »

Thanks for the feedback. I think I'll go with the Petit that Zerocavity suggests.
Thanks,
jack
User avatar
Charlie J
Senior Member
Posts: 2207
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:14
Location: freeport n.y

Post by Charlie J »

walter
i might have a can left over from years ago clear anti fouling, if i do and didnt give it to harv ill bring it out to montauk
DRIFTER31
Senior Member
Posts: 166
Joined: Jun 1st, '07, 20:40
Location: Lafitte Louisiana

Post by DRIFTER31 »

Copper paint and aluminum DONT mix. Just a reminder. I know of a guy who copper painted hid custom built aluminum sport fisher and ruined the bottom completly.
Kill Em All ......Let God Sort Em Out
User avatar
1962 31
Senior Member
Posts: 377
Joined: Dec 1st, '07, 11:41
Location: point pleasant

Post by 1962 31 »

they started making the clear antifouling paint again i think its called alumi-guard i will check next time im at the shop and let you know for sure
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 103 guests