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I recently pulled the boat and had the bottom soda blasted. I’m doing some projects so it will be in the yard for a month or so. When the bottom got all the old paint off, there were only a few blisters but an old keel repair that came out and the bottom needs to be gone through… but looked good. One of the guys in the yard that I know put a moisture meter on the hull and it was 100% in all tested areas…

What do I do?

You have a solid glass hull, put the meter away. They are kinda of useless in the wrong hands.

If worried have your hull sounded by a marine surveyor.

Carl wrote: ↑Aug 29th, '23, 07:03 You have a solid glass hull, put the meter away. They are kinda of useless in the wrong hands.

If worried have your hull sounded by a marine surveyor.

A competent marine surveyor. I had an insurance survey a couple years ago and the surveyor told me he found wood core saturation in the foredeck which is, of course, solid glass.

If you had the bottom soda blasted, it is recommended that you let it dry for several months then barrier coat it. Unless you have a lot of blisters and when you open them have delamination, I would not worry about it. Just let it dry out.

The one problem with letting it dry out, you should also try and keep the bilge dry. Good luck unless you have a cover, so rain does not get in.

Like Carl said don't worry about it. Let it dry and for laughs and giggles check it again after sitting for a while. I bet it doesn't change much.

Thanks guys I was worried about it - this is a big relief. I’m going to grind out some areas on the bottom and let it sit. I’ll have the boat positioned so hopefully everything drains out the plug and stays kind of dry

Also pressure wash and scrub the bottom real good with soap and water

Amberjack wrote: ↑Aug 29th, '23, 13:26 A competent marine surveyor. I had an insurance survey a couple years ago and the surveyor told me he found wood core saturation in the foredeck which is, of course, solid glass.

My bad,Doug is 100% correct in specifying a Competent marine surveyor.

I forgot that today everyone wins, gets a title, receives certification, and is an expert. The kid who manages to show up for a Jiffy Lube job with no experince can be a "Technician" before lunch. Cashiers at the supermarket have become "Sales Associates".

In short, I'll trust a person who knows how to tap a hull and not just trust a Moisture Meter reading as anything more than a tool of comparison n reference. Nothing wrong with using one...but its takes some know how to decipher the information it can provide.

It really depends on the type of meter, humidity, etc. A probe or pin meter reads resistance between the probes, drop of sweat, heavy dew, condensation, etc. may change the readings. A capacitance meter reads, you guessed it, capacitance. More accurate,(only type of meter approved by the US Navy) more expensive, harder to get comfortable using, and takes some time to understand what the readings mean.

Carl is correct about finding a good surveyor, find a a NAMS or SAMS guy who uses a capacitance meter and is conversant with laminates. Not the guy from the broker's office recommendation. Ask the yard who they'd use. Both NAMS and SAMS require technical knowledge, testing and Continuing Ed to maintain their Certification.

Should I just let the boat sit for a month and grind out the areas then have it retested with a surveyor?

Oh, you are asking for opinions! I have one...

You said a couple of blisters...I'd think at the age of your boat, if the hull had issues they would have surfaced way before now. A couple of blisters should be taken care of, clean hulled and sealed with a barrier coat (only as you blasted the bottom), and then move on to your next project.

I do not believe every spot tested could have a major issue with only a couple of blisters to show for it. That leads me to believe the person taking readings on your boat with a moisture meter was doing so incorrectly...meaning he was interpreting the readings incorrectly, he had the meter calibrated wrong for your solid glass boat or a combination of both.

You know you, if this is not going to let you sleep...find a competent surveyor in your area, call and explain your dilemma, ask him stop by and check when in the area, I'd think within a few minutes he will find a whole lot of good spots on your hull to put your mind at ease.

Thank you

My rule of thumb is, if it floated when you pulled it out, it'll float when you put it back in.

Geebert wrote: ↑Sep 5th, '23, 12:22 My rule of thumb is, if it floated when you pulled it out, it'll float when you put it back in.

I do not necessarily agree with this rule of thumb.

That really depends on who worked on it, what they worked on, and if you remembered to put the plug back in before launching.




However, point taken, if it wasn't broken and you didn't try to fix, it should be fine.

As I tell everyone, if someone works on your boat. When they are done and gone check everything. I know too many people who had issues because something wasn't tightened, or maybe there was a hose they should have changed but didn't have one so they used the old one.

I also know of a mechanic that started work on a generator while the boat was on the hard. He determined the generator was shot. When the boat went in the water, they did not realize he left the intake hose off and the sea cock open until the boat was filled with water.

Check and double check.