bertram31.com

I need to fabricate a new cockpit step--the one that you use to step down from the cockpit to the small deck area between the engines to enter the cabin. I'm looking for ideas on step design and materials for the fabrication.

I've been using Coosa board laminated with fiberglass for lots of projects and am thinking about going with that for the step material. I would paint the step with Alexseal and soft sand for the non skid. I need ideas on how to attach the step to the deck and also, I will need fairly quick access below the step because my sea strainers will be under the step. I was wondering if people use a stainless steel piano hinge to attach the step to the deck for easy access.

Many Thanks!

JR

I'm planning something similar for my step between the engine box and also planning on hinging it. I have some photos of a fiberglass step and an aluminum step. Both were hinged.

I'm not sure Coosa would handle the screws is you're going to form the step but that is on my mind as well as an option.

Mine is made of teak .
One horizontal surface, resting on two verticals, hinged with a piano hinge. There is a narrow horizontal part (which doesn't move) on the back that connects the whole construction, onto which is hinged the forward part that moves up and down.
The verticals are resting on 1cm screwed rubber supports (like the ones we use under tables) to take any vibration slack and create a necessary height for water to flow under the step assembly.
Works a marvel!


If you go to my old post of Mar '14 named "B28-Shower creation process", you will see pics of that step. Page 68ish I think.

Jack

I still have the original teak step, but the support has been rebuilt. We use 3/4 Coosa because we had it and put a piece of Formica over it. We used 3/8 fiberglass angle to help with the support. It has held up well, but the Formica needs to be replaced and I am in the process of fixing that part now.

I can take a picture for you but will not be going back to the boat until next week do to family commitments.

Guys,

As always, thanks for the great information and ideas. Yannis, I took a look at your step-simple and beautiful design--on the 31, the sea strainers are housed under the step, so that system won't work for me. Tony, your step sounds more along the lines of what I'm thinking--if/when you make it out to the boat a pic would be great, thanks! Ironworker, If you can post pics of your potential step's that would be great.

I feel like there must be a simple design for this step out there. My old step was an aluminum frame with a piece of teak screwed on for the step. This system took quite a while to unscrew to get to the strainers, and it was not a very stable step.

Many Thanks,

JR

I believe my 31 Express is setup a bit differently.

My motorboxs extend down below the deck from the deck to about halfways to the cabin. At the midway point, the box side panels go deeper into the bilge area, just below the cabin floor.

So my hatch from deck to midway sits on 2 x 2"'s attached to the motorbox sides.

Midway there is a pair of similar supports about 8" long that a mid step is placed.

At the cabin floor height, the lower hatch again sits on a set of supports attached to the sides of the bottom of my motor box.


My steps/hatches just rest on the sides supports attached to the motor box sides. The mid-way one also has an upright channel for an extra panel to close off motor compartment...I don't use that.

The steps can be removed in seconds and stay in place otherwise. If you boxes are not set up similarly I am sure a small grid could be made to do a similar kind of thing. Or Angle alum/fiberglass attached to stringers, rear bulkhead, cabin bulkhead for a hatch/step to sit...a set of notches to hold in place...

Jack: The original style step with the two cleats, but hinged at the back instead of screwed to the cleats sound like the thing! Keep it simple!

Rawleigh,

The original step sounds interesting-I like simple--Having a little trouble visualizing it--maybe next time you're out there you can snap a pic of it and text it to me or post it here on the site.

Carl,

Thanks for the description of your setup--I feel like your deck/engine box is different from mine, but the 2"X2" supports sound interesting. Headed out to the boat this afternoon to brainstorm.

JR

I copied the engine box side panels which were on my boat when I got her, making new side panels and steps out of 1" Azak.

Here is what it looks like.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/5134 ... um/1323178

On the side panels I added an "L"-shaped piece on each side to support the step.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/5134 ... um/1323178

I made the steps out of two pieces of Azak braced with fiberglass angle at the corner and at the aft end to give them more rigidity.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/307687/5134 ... um/1323178

The way all of the pieces on mine fit, I can access my strainers and seacocks by flipping the steps back. If I want to remove the steps completely, however, I have to open the covers on both engine boxes.

Jack, the original step is literally just a piece of teak with two wooden cleats screwed to the side of the filler pieces below the engine box cover. The teak sits between the two engine box filler pieces on top of the cleats. Two screws on either end go into the cleats. I was thinking if you just left the screws out and put a piano hinge across the back of the step where it meets the bulkhead you could just fold it up. This would work as long as the two cleats would not be in the way of your access.

Rawleigh

That is basically what my set up is. We copied the original version but left out all the screws. Have not had an issue with it yet. If I were to hinge the step,(which I have thought about), I would not go with a piano hinge. I would just go with a hinge at each end and use a hinge that allows you to somehow remove the step completely without unscrewing it.

The only modification we made, outside of the coosa, formica, and 3/8 fiberglass angle, was a piece of teak on the bottom of the step to keep it from sliding forward.

Jack

I will be out at the boat, hopefully before the end of the week and will take pictures. Unfortunately, some family stuff keeps coming up and getting in my way.

Peter--Thanks so much for the pictures--they're worth more than a thousand words. I have a hard time visualizing things from a verbal description. I've seen similar fiberglass angle material at McMaster Carr. How does your step stay on? It doesn't look like it's screwed to the L brackets.

Tony--Thanks for the effort,I look forward to any pics you can provide. Rawleigh, My brother is a mechanical engineer, I'm sure he can visualize exactly what you're saying--Thanks!!

Jack,

My step is just held in place by gravity. They fit tightly enough that they don’t move side-to-side when you step on them.

Hey Peter,

I'm looking for design ideas for the step. Any way you could post of pic of your step?

Thanks,

John

jackryan wrote: ↑Jun 4th, '22, 17:46 Hey Peter,

I'm looking for design ideas for the step. Any way you could post of pic of your step?

Thanks,

John

Pictures are included in my post on this topic on 5/27.

https://imgur.com/a/1cD5lXN

Jack

I hope the link works. I posted pics on imgur.

Tony,

I can't remember your having posted pictures before.
Better late than never!!!

Tennis

Not my first rodeo. Haven't done it in quiet a while, and I did have some issues with imgur. They changed their formats since I last used them.

Thanks for posting the pics Tony. I'm having trouble viewing them, but I suspect it's my computer. The pictures of your step pop up momentarily when I click on the imagur link, but they disappear immediately. I'll try my iPad or another computer.

Peter (pschauss)- I did see the pics your step-I commented on your pics in my post on the 28th, and was wondering how you keep your step attached to the L brackets. Thanks again for posting the pics!

JR

Tony,

I was able to view the images fine on my phone. Pretty work with the step! Thanks so much for the images, that'll help with our design for sure. Do you remember the wall thickness of the structural FRP fiberglas 90 degree's that you used for your fabrication process?

JR

Jack, Carl at Elite Marine in ST Pete has a mold. That's where I got mine from

Jack

3/8 from Mcmaster Car. Used it to form the supports for that whole area. It supports the companion way hatches also. You will notice a hole in the top of the angle where the step sits. Originally we had a stainless steel bolt we dropped in there to act as a pin to keep the front panel from popping out.

Never needed it so we do not drop the bolt in anymore. But that is an easy way of securing that piece and still have quick no tool removal.

Tony,

Outstanding information, thanks!

Saburke17, Thanks for the info on Elite Marine, that would def. be the easiest way to go!

Always such good information here.

Thanks Guys,

JR

I just redid mine based on your comments -- laminated coosa, no hinge, angles on the underside to keep it from sliding around. And I found termites in the bulkhead when taking the old step apart. How fun is that?