Gas Struts on Engine Box covers?

[Ironworker]

If someone has installed gas struts on their engine boxes, I'd like to get some info on the size of struts, lifting capacity and location, please? I'm trying not to recreate the wheel is someone has already done the mental math.

I recently had shoulder surgery and I need a little help in lifting the covers for the next 6 months.

[Tony Meola]

Rick

Good question. I have never seen it done. Room is tight but with some planning I am sure it can be done.

[Ironworker]

I'm sure its going to take some trial and error on my part but I'm planning on making it happen. On the new Bertram 35 the box cover lifts are motorized. I'm going to stick with the gas filled shocks that are manual.

[pschauss]

I am not certain that the gas struts will do what you think they will do. I have gas struts on the Bilco Doors for my basement entrance and the doors require considerably more effort to open than the old ones which just used a mechanical latch to hold them open. YMMV.

[Yannis]

Rick,

Why don't you install two stainless eyes, one on the box and the other on the pillar (or wherever you think best), and pass a rope and pulley.
When you're done, you remove the rope and pulley and you are left with only two permanent stainless eyes...

[Ironworker]

Rick,

Why don't you install two stainless eyes, one on the box and the other on the pillar (or wherever you think best), and pass a rope and pulley.
When you're done, you remove the rope and pulley and you are left with only two permanent stainless eyes...

I thought about a rope and pulley system but that only gets me so far. I think the struts will work with the proper engineering. When I get it figured out, I'll post here.

[franzmerenda]

This is some similar application to 31s engine covers

[Ironworker]

Thanks Franz.

I weighed the force to lift my covers today and its 60#s at the initial lift. I haven't weighed the mid point force yet but will do so. I would prefer to use only one strut on each box to minimize obstructions of the engine compartment.

[S Ritzert]

Something like this?

https://imgur.com/a/oGBG6I1

https://imgur.com/a/QVBscQ2

[Tony Meola]

That is an interesting way of lifting the box. The only issue is getting to the outboard side of the engine.

[S Ritzert]

I agree with you on that Tony

The guy I bought my 31 from had 2 31's, the one with the gul wing motor box lids is the one he still has.

I do think its a very cool install, and if you have to access the engines while you're out in the boat with people in it, then its super handy to flip open without anything being in the way.

[Ironworker]

Thanks for the photos. That is an interesting way to hinge the box. I'm a little past that since I've hinged on a curb on the floor but my boat will likely never be finished so perhaps in the future.

[Carl]

Gulling style, very cool!


Is it practical is another thing. Yes easy to open taking up less deck room. Access to outside looks great n easy, outboard side is fine if motors are cool and don’t mind climbing over. Lifting heavy from the outside look back breaking. However in the world of boats that still looks better than many boats.

I do have one concern with gas struts, they give out. I’d hate to be inside the outboard side and have it shut. It would take a ridiculous amount of effort to get box to open from inside.


My 31 express motor box is much different. My box has two hatches on top that give okay access to top n outboard. Box has to be lifted up n to center a little before tilting back. That’s back breaking. To avoid that I have climbed through hatch outboard the motor to pull raw water pump. It’s tight going in…backing up n out is worse. Not removing the hatch before going in was stupid. Thanks to the Bertram roll even in my slip the hatch closed with me inside… with nobody around. I’m not claustrophobic, but there was a few seconds of near panic.

[Ironworker]

Is there a better idea than struts to assist with opening the boxes?

[Yannis]

Opening is one thing, how about sliding back all the cover towards the aft?

[S Ritzert]

A linear actuator

[Ironworker]

I thought about those. I just don't know how the electric motor would hold up in the salt environment. I also wondered if there was a fail safe that I could open the box if the motor failed?

[Carl]

I kinda shut down struts as they can fail, but if they do what you need a work around is a brace once lifted. Like the steal rod that holds your cars engine hood open.


Linear rails and the like I have played in my mind with to slide motor box covers out n back. Doable but I found overly combersomm.

[Tony Meola]

How about designing a deck with a track system. Modify the box covers so you can then slide them back on the track. I got that idea from Greg Thinnel (Thumbs Up) who use to be on here. He did that with his 30 Chris tournament.

[DanielM]

In regard to how to open the box if an electric actuator failed, Last night I saw someone mention on The Hull Truth they had installed an access port in their engine box to have the ability to pull the pin in case of actuator failure. Seemed an interesting method. At least you could get the hatch open.

[Yannis]

What is the original way these boxes open?
I'm asking because, as I see in the pics above, the rope and pulley system looks as if attached under the lip of the flybridge above, it could very well open the box all the way, as well as keep it secure without fear of falling. For it to be applicable though there has to exist some sort of hinge at the outboard connection of the box to the boat. Is it so?

[Tony Meola]

Yannis

The box lifts up and back, so it rests on the deck. If you only open it as far as the bridge overhang it is not fully open. The issue is lifting it up to the bridge distance if you were using the pulley, then from that point it wants to crash down on the deck. It gets heavy with Sounddown on them.

[Yannis]

Tony,

In the second pic that Shannon posted on Jan 6th, it is obvious that the box opens 100%. If the box is also hinged on the outboard side, I see no reason why it should need to crash down on you, with a pulley system attached.
Unless if all the 31's are NOT made the same.

[Carl]

Yannis- The 2nd picture is a custom modification. FBC and sportfish 31's are hindged at the rear base to the deck. Box is lifted front the front side up, past 90 degrees and lays on the deck for full access. While great to have full access the boxs can be heavy. Yes a rope n pulley or even a rope to the bridge rail may be helpful to get the box lifted up most of the way. If using a rope was able to get almost 70-80 degrees the rest is easy.

On my boat the hole box needs to be lifted up to clear deck, then I pivot the box up from the rear using the pedestal for leverage. Back breaking...especially when insulated.
When swapping the transmission some years ago I wanted the deck clear to work, I did pretty much what your saying...I tied a rope to the motor box, up to the tower then pulled the boxes straight up and tied off giving full access.


I thought about rails on the deck to slide motor boxs back...Ugly. Thought about wheels under box...cumbersome. Thought about articulating arm spring loaded...it just got crazy and went back to lifting the boxs when needed. 90% of the time I gain access with the two top access hatchs. Its oil changes, n inpsections that have me pulling the box.

[Yannis]

Yes Carl, I understand.

So,if you eliminate the hinges that are aft and instead affix a piano hinge (or two sturdy hinges) on the outboard side, then you could lift with a pulley.
It doesn't seem such an extraordinary task, why not study if it's feasible?

[Carl]

Not feasible for me...not sure about other boat designs.

My motor box is considerably different. The motor box in the picture is two pieces, the side piece that stays attached and the main box that tilts open...Mine is one piece that goes under the side panels, so no hinge n tilt. Plus I have to access hatches on top with a mounted pedestal in the middle.

I could make new boxs...but more work than I want to fix a not real big problem when I have plenty of others.


If my boxes opened like the other models...I'd be happy to just lift n swing open. But if too heavy, I'd consider struts to give the initial push...just not go under unless supported mechanically or with friends on board or nearby.

[Yannis]

Carl, my comment was for Rick. I know that your configuration doesn't allow for a rope and pulley system.

[Ironworker]

Carl, my comment was for Rick. I know that your configuration doesn't allow for a rope and pulley system.

Hinging on the outboard side of the box is not an option for me. Hinging on the gutter has all sorts of problems and I'm beyond rebuilding boxes and gutters. Its going to be fishing season shortly.

[Yannis]

I hear you Rick, starting a hinging project on the gutter side is not a weekend task!
And usually while trying to fix one thing, there are two other new issues that pop up...

[franzmerenda]

Found another picture of a 31 with gas struts

[Ironworker]

Thanks Franz, Thats the general area I'm looking at. The photo gives me a place to start.

[Tony Meola]

Still doesn't open all the way, and getting to the back side of the engine will be a royal pain.

[Raybo Marine NY]

Those are hydraulic or electric lifts, not gas struts. Very nice pieces in all polished stainless steel.

I see heavy single (and double) gas struts rip out all the time. The lifting force puts equal strain as you try to lower it. Angle brackets mounted to the edge rip off, mounts on the box rip off. Sometimes just a backing plate helps or we try to add 2 to lessen the force on one point.

Electric actuators operate much differently and are usually mounted to a good fixed point like the deck or pad glassed to the bottom of the boat. Could be what those boxes are that are almost up against the manifolds in that photo.
An inspection plate that allows access to a manual release such as a pin is usually standard equipment on most factory boats . Or they make you unscrew a table base , lift a cushion out of the way, etc.