Above the console is being post cured in my hot box. After three days of curing naturally under ambient conditions, the post curing cycle was run at 100° - 110° F for a 24 hour period. This brought the Epifanes RapidClear to harder finish and further equalized the teak and epoxy joints. I feel confident that the present structural characteristics have been thoroughly locked in...
The hot box is a marvelous tool when I need to post cure, hasten the cure, or generally reduce the moisture content of an item. It is powered by a pair of 300 watt infa-red heat lamps and a small air circulating muffin fan. The box was built from some old 1/2" plywood shelving. The interior was insulated with fiberglass batting and covered with a reflective insulation board, (Thermo-Ply®).
Under the lamps, a baffle shelf was installed to prevent the lamps from shinning directly onto the object being heated. The heat is controlled by a dimmer switch, monitored by a cooking thermometer inserted low on the right door. The maximum heat range for the box is 190° F.
About Post Curing: (From Vyncolit N.V.)
Improve Dimensional stability, Heat and Compressive Creep Resistance
While the post curing description above is more generally addressing polymer molds and parts, the same principals are applied to items constructed of wood & resin systems...
With post curing complete, the console is allowed to cool back to ambiant temperature for several hours before any sanding is done.
After close inspection, only a few spots need to be leveled out slightly with sand paper, the rest of the surface can be scuffed with the medium refinishing pad before proceeding into the final varnish application of Epifanes WoodFinish Gloss.
More to come later....
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