B25 '68 advice

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Yannis
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by Yannis »

These are 5 pics of a mint Riva 25 moored right next to me at this very moment.
Tell me if you need something, I’ll jump over and play Zoro!


https://flic.kr/p/2mj27u2
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
beachbum
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Joined: Oct 4th, '20, 08:44

Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Thanks all

Thinking more or less along the same lines as me but good to know that she might be a bit heavier, I guess this is down to the 460kg (1014lb) engine. Add fluids, the leg and transom assembly etc and it must be over 600kg (1300lb).

The chines are dead on the waterline at the aft.

The propeller needs changing, the old antifoul needs to come off (taken back to gel coat, there's loads of old antifoul on the hull) and the current prop is heavily antifouled.

Add all these factors and it is making a lot of sense.

One more question, couldn't be anything to do with a dodgy waste gate? Turbo is new but I didn't really notice any significant improvements in performance between old and new turbo, despite the old one being written off by the specialists.
Last edited by beachbum on Aug 24th, '21, 15:15, edited 1 time in total.
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Yannis wrote: Aug 24th, '21, 08:31 These are 5 pics of a mint Riva 25 moored right next to me at this very moment.
Tell me if you need something, I’ll jump over and play Zoro!


https://flic.kr/p/2mj27u2
My good god that's beautiful
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CamB25
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by CamB25 »

Dead on the waterline I take to mean they are not submerged. That's great! It's a good data point for me...I might be able to carry one of the new Merc V12s, or at least a 5.6L Yamaha. It's on my Christmas list, but I've been a bad boy this year so far, so I'm not hopeful.

Cleaning up the hull and fouled prop should help alot. I was amazed at the performance loss on my boat with just some slime on the bottom. Anti-fouling on a prop? Never seen that...sounds like a recipe for a slow boat.

Your making rpm, so I think your engine is probably fine. If you were down on horsepower you would never reach WOT.

Maybe try hiring a diver to clean the bottom and swapping out that prop for a good stainless steel unit before hauling for a bottom job. Gives you a new data point that might be enough to meet your goals.

Good Luck!
1963 Bertram 25
1973 Boston Whaler 13 - sold!
1998 Scout 172 SF - beach taxi
beachbum
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Joined: Oct 4th, '20, 08:44

Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Cheers Cam.

Boat is filthy underneath at the moment so it's not worth even trying until I get her out and give her a spray.

For info - I was a bit off with the chine vs waterline. Port side sits about 10mm above the waterline whereas stbd is 10mm underwater. She's always leaned a little to stbd, when I first got hold of her it was quite substantial as everything weighty was on the same side. I've since balanced the distribution a bit better so she sits nearly level. All the deck hatches drain into the stbd side hatch (which is a live bait well) which doesn't help either.
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Carl
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by Carl »

CamB25 wrote: Aug 24th, '21, 16:12 Your making rpm, so I think your engine is probably fine. If you were down on horsepower you would never reach WOT.

Yes and no Cam.

Yes he's making WOT, but attaining WOT rpm can be done with a bum motor by pulling pitch out of the wheel.

Pull pitch out and boat goes slower and that is where we started when beachbum seemed disappointed by the 20knt cruise. At first, it seemed kinda slow for that much hp...then a fouled bottom and wheel were mentioned. The other item I did not expect to hear is the weight of that motor...with high rpm I was expecting the motor to be a lightweight motor like Yanmar or Steyr. Damn, it's heavier than a Cummins. Deep vee and lots of weight require lots of power to push.

I think it goes back to a good prop person. One who can take all the information on hull design, weight, hp,WOT rpm, gear ratio and figure out what should be the ideal wheel and what speeds should be attainable. I'm thinking abot 25's I've played with...but they were all newer, lighter boats with modified v's and gas. Much different ballpark.
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Thanks Carl

Yes I found the name of a prop specialist near to me and I'll be investigating in the winter. If the rest of the boat was anything to go by, there will be 20+ years of antifoul accumulated on the hull. I simply didn't have time to take her back to the gelcoat last winter but I should do this time around.

P.S. I was lucky enough to have a trip on a 31 last week, in the Straits of Bonifacio (the small gap between the islands of Corsica and Sardinia), 5-6ft on the beam, 26-32 knots of wind. Didn't drop below 18 knots SOG. I don't think I've ever been so impressed on a boat, ever. Possibly on a Botnia Targa, but damn it was good.

Mike
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Carl
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by Carl »

beachbum wrote: Aug 26th, '21, 07:26 I don't think I've ever been so impressed on a boat, ever. Possibly on a Botnia Targa, but damn it was good.

Mike


Then take into account the great classic lines of the 31, they still turn heads.

Amazing to think these boats were designed and built 60 years ago.
Yannis
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by Yannis »

Not to say how much better it would have been in a 28, rather than a 31. As dry as James Bond in a three piece suite.
1973 B28 FBC/2007 4LHA STP's - "Phantom Duck" - Hull "BER 00794 1172"
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

So on we go. During the time she was in the water from March 2021 to July 2022, there had been a constant drip in from the sterndrive transom assembly. I knew my repair attempt on the steering shaft hadn't worked as the area the steering seal sits in, was too far gone. New transom assembly required which means engine out etc etc all over again.

One thing I noticed during the winter 2020-2021 was the state of the hull, it needed to go back to gelcoat (or fibreglass), it was a mess. So this was going to be a fairly heavy yard period.

July 2022: I nearly had a heart attack when I found the transom to more or less peel off around the transom assembly

Image

Image

This was becoming very unnerving but after all was removed, chipped, grinded away, what was left was actually in good condition. I had a surveyor check the moisture readings, which were slightly high but nothing crazy. She was about to sit in 35°c heat for 2 months so I was confident. Unfortunately the down side was that stripping the hull was nearly unbearable. I had to start at 5.30am and by 9am, stop as it was just impossible, sweat just pouring off me (as I was in a nuclear style protective suit, goggles, mask, gloves..)

Started like this:
Image

Almost finished:
Image

After cleaning every last speck of old cr*p off the bottom, it was time for 4 coats of epoxy treatment.
Image

Then moved her inside and put the new transom assembly in:
Image

Launch day, 11th Jan, after another 6 months out of the water:
Image

And here she is again. No leaks, ran well, manages about 1 knot more than she did at the last launch so the hull work did have some effect.
Image

When in the strops being launched, I got a readout of the weight, approx 3100 kgs (6800lbs). This doesn't seem crazy heavy so I am still disappointed with the 26.5 knots WOT, but I think a smaller diameter / larger pitch prop might be the way forward, as I was expecting it to be heavier than this.

25' guys, what are you weighing in at?
captbone
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by captbone »

Looks good.

What engine are you running currently? What ratio is your outdrive and what size propeller are you currently running?
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

I've tried measuring the ratio myself and I think it's 1.65, the prop I'm not sure but looks to be a 21" diameter
captbone
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by captbone »

Post a picture of the prop and outdrive if you have it. 21 inches in diameter does not sound right. 21 pitch?
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Thanks captbone - these are the best I've got. Engine is a 4.2 litre Mercruiser diesel, 320hp. 3900rpm with the limiter at 4000, she reaches 4000rpm no problem, and can do so even when a bit dirty.

Image

Image
Ironworker
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by Ironworker »

You've done a great job with that boat!
Rick Ott
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captbone
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by captbone »

Looks like a Left hand rotation Bravo 2 sterndrive.

For speed you can try a Bravo 1 or Bravo 3 lower unit as the uppers are all the same.
beachbum
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Re: B25 '68 advice

Post by beachbum »

Yeah that's it, it's a B2 alright. It's definitely geared up to spin free with less load and I'm sure there are another 5 knots available if I can get the leg set up properly.

I've looked at the 3X although it's going to be out of the question for the moment ($€£) - 2nd hand units here in Europe just don't seem to exist.

That's interesting about just changing the lower unit though. I get scared giving sterndrives too much torque to deal with but if the upper gearset is good then there is no reason to change it. Something I will look in to, thanks for the tip.
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