bertram31.com

Do you have the solid lowers or see thru lowers on the racors?

They are see thru.

I was able to filter the fuel yesterday, almost 6 hrs replacing the racor every hour. Its not as clean as the other one but at least now you can see thru the bowl.

Had to replace the exhaust elbows. The ones that came with the engines were rusted so I scrapped those, I had installed the ones from the other engines but I noticed an exhaust leak when I ran the boat. That same day my lawyer sent me the receipts for the parts that the shady mechanic had sent and I saw that the elbows he used were for Volvo engines. I went into the website and saw that the Yanmar had a lip that goes into the turbo exit so that there's no exhaust leak so ordered both last week.

Yanmar right, Volvo left


Volvo


Yanmar

Mickey
only 1 Medalia in the trash?
surely there are more with all of the challenges you have had.
You are almost there. Have one more Medalia and dream of all the good times ahead.
Happy Thanksgiving

Filtering the diesel didn't do the trick of getting to 3800 rpms. Still getting 3300 on the stbd. engine. Mechanic was supposed to come today but never arrived and never answered his phone. The only thing to check but I need another person is the travel of the cable but with the boat running. With the engine off and advancing the throttle its getting to WOT.

Any other ideas??

Are the injectors on that engine good?

Engine sounds great and no smoke at any rpm.

I will check this today. I found it last night and its exactly the symptoms I have.

This wasn’t the issue. I drained around 100 gallons from this tank and will refuel tomorrow. I will do another test with the new fuel and will report back but I'm thinking it has something to do with the boost of the turbo, this engine got very wet with the PO.

Replaced the fuel, racor and engine filter and won’t go past 2000 unless I push the other engine which carries this one up to 2500 but it won’t go any more. Also tested it with the other tank in case the pickup was clogged but it did the same. Now also its starting to smoke black a bit. I’m really thinking the issue is the injection pump.

Kept thinking and removed the intercooler. It had some salt residue and black soot, when I went to install it something didn't make sense so went to the other engine and removed the back endcap and then I realized that they had installed the bundle wrong on the troubled engine. They had aligned the arrow in the bundle with a groove on top if the housing, instead of aligning the arrow with one of the bolt holes. By aligning the arrow with the groove, the bundle would not seal the 2 halves on the interior of the housing creating an internal bypass so the boost wouldn't open the aneroid for more fuel. This is also why on this engine the paint yellowed in the back part of the housing and on the other engine it still completely white. I still need to seatrial the boat whick I will do tomorrow. Also found a blocked screen inside the bolt that holds the fitting for the return line on the injection pump fitting.

Good news and bad news. The good news are that the intercooler issue fixed the temperature difference between the engines, there’s no
more black smoke and now it reaches 3200 rpm at anytime.

Bad news is that I’m still short in rpm. I opened the aneroid again and found diesel on top of the diaphragm so that lets me to believe its bad and leaking.

Here are 2 videos from Saturday:

https://imgur.com/MX7VOqE

https://imgur.com/npUwAAS

But as you know, happiness isn't forever. I removed the stbd engine's injection pump to send it to be rebuilt. When I placed it on its side on my dock box, this is what drained from the inside. I suppose the brown stuff to be water and all those particles. I can't imagine how's the inside of that pump.

Sent the pump to Everglades diesel in Ft. Lauderdale, when they called to tell me it was ready they said it was completely rusted on the inside. Pump has been installed for 3 weeks but I was waiting for 1 fuel line from the pump to the #4 injector, this line arrived today I was able to install it and start the engine. Also decided to replace the timing belt tensioner on the other engine as the one on this engine looked bad. The injection pump pulley and the camshaft pulley look BAAAAAAD, you cant even see the marks to set the engine in time so I will be replacing these 2 just for piece of mind. After this, I should be ready for the seatrial with the mechanic.

I hope you finally got it figured out!

I wait to hear the good news with much anticipation.

Last week:
More bad news. Engine won't go over 1200 rpm. Called the guys at Everglades diesel (they did the pump) and we did some troubleshooting. Apparently now the issue is the injectors. I sent the injectors the day after.

Today:
Spoke today with Everglades diesel and the injectors are good. Only 1 had an irregular spray pattern and they cleaned them up. They are not charging for this. So now I've spent $3,000 between sending them the pump, shipping both ways and a few parts that I replaced when I disassembled the pump (injector lines etc), $90 to send the injectors, $300 for all the seals and gaskets to install them back and we still haven't solved the issue, in fact the problem is worse than before. So now I have to send the pump back, $188 more in shipping. I removed it today and will ship out tomorrow.

Also I lost my job 7 weeks ago and haven’t been able to secure another one.
I'm getting to the point of selling the boat at a loss and keep walking.

Any suggestions?

Mikey

Sorry to hear that your issues keep building up. You put a lot of sweat and tears into the boat. Not sure what the boat or job market is like in Puerto Rico.

If you think you can hold on for a bit, you could just let her sit on the hard to keep costs to a minimum, then once you get your life back together you can move forward.

I wish you luck, and hope that things turn around for you.

I think I found the issue. A 1/8 hole in the line between the engine and the pump’s aneroid creating a pressure leak so the aneroid is not opening the pump for more fuel. I’ll post pics tonight.

This piece connects the pressure hose between the manifold, block where the boost gauge goes and the injection pump's aneroid.

See pics:

Your devotion to this project has certainly been challenged. It was a well-deserved rant about walking away...and then you went back to the grindstone to find yet another issue that can be the final solution. Man...I hope so.


Suggestions...

Don't make any hasty decisions. I think I'd figure out a way to keep the boat on the cheap (maybe it has to go back to dads). Try to see if you can get her running as a running boat is worth more to you and/or a buyer.

Job...damn sorry to hear, seems so much has gone sideways lately. I've admired your strength, dedication, and perseverance on this boat project, I know you'll get through this too.

well that hole sure isn't supposed to be there. Get it changed and see if that it.

I welded the hole and I'm waiting for the injectors so I can see if this was the issue. I also ordered the part and the old one will be a spare. I only pay $330 monthly at the marina. Its the cheapest marina on the island. What's really killing me is the loan I took to buy these engines, its almost $1000/month. I put my apartment for sale last monday as its been 7 weeks and not a single call for an interview. Next thing to go is my truck which pays $900.

Micky

Hang in there. Hopefully it will turn around for you. Seven weeks seems like a long time without an offer for a job, but in reality, it really isn't. Keep on pushing, it will come.

So did 3 seatrials today and the engine still wont go over 3200. 3200 and less it runs beautiful. The other engines goes to 3800. I did 2 adjustments to the injection pump with the huynfrom everglades diesel on the phone. We opened the fuel delivery screw 1/4 of a turn and that did nothing, also opened the throttle stop 2 turns and nothing also.
Tomorrow I’m installing a boost gauge for the turbo. Any other ideas?. I’ll post some videos tonight.

No smoke on the slow-turning motor?


Shafts turn free, not fouled?

Both wheels checked out on the same machine, by the same person at the same time?

Similar exhaust setup on both sides...wondering if may be a restriction.

From my extremely limited diesel knowledge, the above would cause black smoke...as would turbo, I think.


Does the no-load test provide the correct rpm?

I assume the same fuel and setup is being used for each motor, filters clear, all valves open, no restrictions with full flow. Maybe swap lines if possible.

Tachs are right...


If gas motors I'd be doing a compression test, not sure how that works out on a diesel.

Grasping at straws here...hopefully, someone in the know will chime in.

No smoke and shafts spin free, props and shafts painted with propspeed last month.

Both wheels bought brand new at the same time from general propeller. 20 x 20 x 4.

Same exhaust setup and both engines turn 4200-4300 no load.

I’m going to switch the tachs between engines tomorrow.

I already have the boost gauge ready to be installed. The problem is that 99% of the time I’m alone to do these tests, friends are only available when they need something.

If the turbo gets 30 psi, I can discard that being the issue. I know the pump and injectors are good.

The mechanic mentioned checking the compression but he said it would smoke and it wouldnt start up on the first turn.

micky wrote: ↑Apr 4th, '23, 14:20 I already have the boost gauge ready to be installed. The problem is that 99% of the time I’m alone to do these tests, friends are only available when they need something.

I bought long hoses to run the gages in line of sight, so I could run the boat, monitor gauges and compare. I'm not smart enough to tell them what to look for unless I see it first. That and I find help distracting at times.

New wheels can be out up to 10% from factory, but your outside of that...ugh.

https://boatdiesel.com/Forums/index.cfm ... d_ID=74294

This guy suggested to look at the turbo's intake to see if its clogged up as he had the same issue and this was it.

https://boatdiesel.com/Forums/index.cfm?Thread_ID=74278

Port 3800 - Starboard 3200
https://imgur.com/1K2HxRh

Both at 3200
https://imgur.com/P5YHSAP

Both at 3000
https://imgur.com/0fgbJIe

So this afternoon I posted the issue on boatdiesel. A guy contacted me and told me he has been having the same exact issue with his 2 engines. Hi found his intercooler completely sealed with oil gunk and had to replace the bundle and also he opened the intake side of the turbo and everything was covered with the same gunk. I remembered when Madhatter went to check out the engines that the air filter from that engine was covered in this gunk. This made me put my pants on again and go back to the boat (6:45pm). I removed the whole intercooler housing (intercooler was cleaned last december as I found in installed in the wrong position) and then proceeded to open the turbo. I found everything covered in the same oily gunk. I cleaned up everything with degreaser, a small wire brush and break cleaner and closed the turbo. I'll install the intercooler tomorrow as I have the new gasket at my dad's shop. I'm also going to pressure test it as I saw some water drops in the air side. If you see the videos, that engine has steam going out the exhaust.

Original air filter






I had already started cleaning it.










Where I saw the water drops.

UV used to clean his turbos by spraying a distilled water and Dawn dishwashing soap mix into them while running.

Yes but this was sludge. I’ve heard of the method you mentioned but for turbo “maintenance”.

I just opened the intercooler once again and had it dipped in a 5 gallon bucket of gasoline. Oil came out of it. I will post the pics tonight.

Installed everything back together on the engine, installed the boost gauge and changed the tachometers from port to starboard.

Rawleigh I still remember that about the turbo cleaning but the most important trick I learned was when capt pat told me about the soadies amonioa to clean the teak gunnels

GOOOOOOOOOD NEWS!!!!! 

The issue is the tachometer. Yesterday I switched them around and the issue moved to the other engine.

I’m going to order 2 new tachometers. Will seatrial again and report back. If this is the issue, I need to prop down a bit as the yanmar tachs are reading 3800 so I’m 300 rpms short.

Sweet news, so glad to hear!!

Mickey

That's great.

Rawleigh

I read somewhere that Yanmar no longer recommends the dawn wash for the turbo.

Micky-Very happy for you that the odyssey looks to be coming to a happy end, you deserve a stretch of blue skys and calm seas. Any idea what caused the buildup?

No idea, I cleaned the other side today and it was worst. I do have exhaust leak on both, I tested them today with water and soap but I haven't run the engines enough for this buildup to happen. Maybe the PO had exhaust leaks and never cared for them.

Where can I order the sealant for exhaust leaks?

Decided to clean the other intercooler and turbo. The turbo wasn't as bad as the other one but the intercooler was waaaaaaaay worst. Opening the turbo had a little mishap as apparently someone had already opened it in the past and damaged the threads from one of the bolts so the lower part of the housing broke. I used a nut and bolt to "fix it" back together. Next weekend I'll haul it out to pressure wash the bottom while I wait for the tachometers. They should be here in 2 weeks.







After cleaning.

Both exhaust leaks have been fixed.

You fixed a lot of problems that didn’t fix your tach issue, but fixing those things now should give long trouble free operation in years to come. Not done in vain…


You didn’t ask… but something I just thought of. Could have put motors in, ran great and constantly plagued with little issues…this kinda cleared those up.

That's they way I've thought about this as I've spent almost $5k, plus now $1,100 for the tachometers.

Since day 1 on the water the boat is a little tilted forward even with full fuel tanks because of the weight removed from the old engines and putting the generator in front of the engines instead of in between the transmissions. Water accumulated on the port side where the shore power is creating mold and always having water on that side. Yesterday I decided to install a drain on that corner and today it was installed. It works perfectly.

Mickey

Nice work. Hopefully you can now enjoy her.

Here is some information for cleaning Turbos. For future reference.

https://boattest.com/article/turbos-101 ... e=hs_email

Mickey,

Glad you’re seeing a little light at the end of the tunnel after such a long journey. Hope you get to enjoy her soon.

Cruising at 2800 is 15-16 knots, 3000 is 17 knots, 3200 is 19 knots, 3400 is 21 knots, 3600 is 23 knots and 3800 is 25-26 knots. I need to prop for 3950 but that will be done next year when I haul out. For now I'll enjoy the summer.

Videos:

https://imgur.com/gKoZLV3

https://imgur.com/2xHtFyX

https://imgur.com/AuIr6v1

https://imgur.com/cVP1hhV

It was one hell of a journey, thanks for taking us along for the ride.

Enjoy!