bertram31.com

Today I took the boat out of the water and raised the water line and installed the black line.

I have to say, she looks good.

it looks like a early 60's Bertram 25 with the curved windows in the background of the last pic

A few weeks ago the transfer switch from the AC panel went out so decided to move that panel to the main closet under the main panel. Used a 12 x 12 pvc box, installed a main panel with transfer and a voltmeter on the side (still waiting for it).

Then looked at the main panel and said " I can remove a few things here" and ended up with an almost empty panel. Had a new acrylic made for it. Also replaced the transfer switch with breakers.

Paid for the new to me engines today. Now this thread can continue

Micky

Good to hear. Hoping everything works out for you.

I've been waiting and hoping for you...

Read your post yesterday and wasn't sure if I should be happy you had to buy new to you motors, had to deal with the others...

But I guess the smile at the end means you are just happy to move forward...I'll go with that.

Great news, hope you get them in, splash soon, all exceed your expectation then get to truly relax a bit and enjoy your gorgeous new to you boat.

They are finally here. Already removed the transmissions as they wont match my boat but I have the old ones. Tomorrow I'll do their tune ups, remove starters and alternator to have them checked (1 alternator is not charging). Need to pressure wash them good as they have a lot of flaking paint and then paint them.

Are these 315’s?

What is this whole engine thing to the right?

Thanx.

Lets all keep our fingers crossed! Good luck Micky!

Started with the tune ups yesterday afternoon and finished today. Did impellers, thermostats, zincs, all heat exchanger, oil cooler, intercooler gaskets and o rings, circulated barnacle buster for 1 hr each engine. You wont believe what came out of those engines. Also replaced the timing belts and 1 timing belt tensioner. Still need to add coolant and oil but I forgot to order 2 o rings for the heat exchangers. Also had to order the oil lines for 1 of the oil coolers as they were bent. Tomorrow I'm taking both starters and alternators to be checked as 1 alternator is not charging.

What do you guys recommend to stop the rust on the outside of the engine before painting them??

Today I scraped all the loose paint and pressure washed them, them gave them 2 coats of primer. I'll paint them tomorrow. I should receive the missing orings this week and can put oil and coolant in them and should have the starters and alternators tomorrow. Oil cooler lines should be here next week.

Engines got painted today. Starters, alternators, belts, all hoses and air filter were installed. Plan for tomorrow is to install the wiring harness on both engines. After that need to wait for the o-rings, fuel coolers and oil cooler lines to arrive so I can install them.

They look good. What paint did you use? I have heard of some using Awl Grip, but not sure how tht holds up to the heat.

Sherwin Williams Sher Kem. I was going to buy 1 gallon of Awlgrip but between paint, activator and reducer it was $600 with port supply.

Decided to paint the engine room as the paint that I had used previously had gone from white to cream. also removed all the paint from the engine beds, primed them with red oxide and painted them white.

Oil cooler lines were replaced today. Also received the fuel coolers (in the process of painting them) and will install them on Wednesday. After this, install on Saturday if everything goes according to plan.

Both engines were installed today and stbd engine was starter and ran for 15 minutes. Port engine wasn't started because I was missing 2 hoses. I already bought them and will install and start tomorrow. Plan is to leave them running for 1 hour tomorrow at idle. They sound VERY different from the other 2.

https://imgur.com/dFGmMgF

Nice. Very nice. Best of luck.

Perseverance

Your picture should be in the dictionary under that word.

I remain on the edge of my seat waiting for your posting after you come back from a phenomenal well earned ride.

Click on the links to see the videos.

https://imgur.com/xg6qIFR

https://imgur.com/bEQRplz

Closer…

Sounds great

I had left the bridge cushions in place (for the last 6 months), water got under them and the paint bubbled (the old paint under the new ones). Sanding day one more time. Faired the areas and left it with 545 today. Tomorrow I'll fill a few pinholes and prime again. This never ends!!!!!!!!

Micky, you are the energizer bunny kid!

Mickey,
Sorry to hear about the bubbling paint. I also learned the hard way to never allow cushions to be stored flat down on any surface. I always store vertically so both sides will breathe and with zipper side down to allow water to drain out.

Mmmm…I’d put cushion down, grab a cold one, sit and listen to those motors purr. Tomorrow is another day.

Should that happen. I know the paint is not made to be submerged, but should that really cause an issue?

Tony Meola wrote: ↑Oct 31st, '22, 21:17 Should that happen. I know the paint is not made to be submerged, but should that really cause an issue?

Amberjack's cockpit was refinished with Awlgrip paint in 2004. The care and maintenance instructions said to avoid leaving wet items such as lines, fabric, etc. on the paint long term, possibly meaning when the paint was fresh--can't remember that part for sure. I tried to follow those instructions when possible but its a boat and it certainly happened. Its been 18 years and the cockpit paint is still hanging in there. Micky, maybe your paint just needed to cure a bit more.

Tony Meola wrote: ↑Oct 19th, '22, 22:24 They look good. What paint did you use? I have heard of some using Awl Grip, but not sure how tht holds up to the heat.

A captain I used to work for on a previous vessel painted some parts of an engine with awlgrip, it did begin to turn a bit brown shortly after

Almost had to paint the whole bridge but at least its done.

Micky-

I hope your lack of posting is because your are out enjoying the boat...

...aside from paint touch up's, we left off hearing your motors idling at the dock.

Still docked. Travel lift broke down last week so couldn't clean the bottom to test engines and props. Supposedly I'm scheduled for Saturday. I'll report back if I was able to do it or not.

LOL

Micky, you have the patients of a saint.

If it were me, I'd untie the boat, idle out to a safe area, jump in with a scraper in hand, clean the bottom and go for a ride...or I'd be running around like a lunatic losing my mind.

I was able to clean the bottom. Should have a RUNNING update next week.

Carl!!! I have a surprise for you. She topped out 25.5 knots at 3100 rpm so its heavily overpropped. Top rpm of these engines is 3800 and they have to be propped to reach 4000. These props are Veem Conquest 20 x 20. What hurt is that these props are brand new and I have to buy another set.

https://imgur.com/FyICVzy

https://imgur.com/VwVqgfS

https://imgur.com/pasy70t

Why not just have the prop shop take some pitch out of them?

By the way, looking good. Congratulations. you made it.

Not sure a prop shop would take out that much blade pitch. Approx 1" per 200 rpm. By the calculations he's down 4 1/2". Thats alot of pitch to take out.
Micky to be sure and you may have already done this, but make sure you back up rpm with a hand held, don't depend on electric tachs to give accurate rpm.

AWESOME Micky. thanks for sharing !! That Sea Trial was a long time coming.

Tony- Bruce is right, a 2" pitch change is about all a shop will do...some may go 3" explaining it's alot to move the blades and they do not what to hear you coming back about a thrown blade.

Micky
My .02 on needing that much pitch change would be to borrow a set that is closer. Put them on to verify you're in the ballpark. Sometimes the motors are really lugging needing some of the pitch removed just to get to the point the adjustments of pitch are linear to rpm. If you cannot borrow or find a cheap set, or a wheel change with haul is stupid money...you are not that far off. Hatteras's of that vintage are heavy-arse boats to get up and going...but once up, that flat bottoms can work for you.

Nice job !

I’m thinking its the tachs. I’m installing the Yanmar tachs today to do another sea trial because the engines dont sound like they are luggin, there is absolutely NO smoke but the 2500 rpm at 18 knots doesnt make any sense.

Well from Micky's post on the Tach's in the other post, it looks like the props might not be the issue.

Went out today to test the tachometers and the starboard engine has a fuel delivery problem, it wouldn't go past 2500 rpms even if I kept pushing the throttles and the other engine carried this one so had to turn around. Racors and engine fuel filters are new. I'll replace the racors tomorrow, check the fuel lines (which are brand new) and check the tank pickup.

Also noticed that the temp on this engine goes up a lot faster than on the other engine. Don't know if this is normal but I couldn't run her so don't know if it overheats or not. I did flush everything on the engines with barnacle buster, new impellers, new hoses, new coolant, new thermostats and removed the old impeller pieces from the intercooler. Other engine is at 130 and this one at 170. Eventually the other one gets to 170.

Mickey

Check the Thermostats. Make sure they both open at the right Temp. Or possibly the one that runs cooler is stuck open.

Came back to the boat and changed the racors. The diesel on that engine’s tank is very dark and cloudy sondrained about 5 gallons from the bottom of the tank just in case it had water, the other tank is clear. Also checked the diesel on the engines fuel filter and both were clear.

I know the engines are freshly installed... Were they taken apart or were the injector pumps removed? I only say that because timing can cause an engine to lose RPM and run hot...just food for thought although I would not think that is your problem...

Also are the valves adjusted properly? Just talking out loud on a few basics

Is there an "aneroid" type of fuel delivery valve or something like that on that engine? Something like will sometimes not fully open and causes a lack of fuel delivery issue...

Half the issue is solved. By replacing the racor the stbd engine went up to 3200 rpm. I didn’t change the engine filter as the diesel was clear there. Port engine reached 3800 without issues, even pulling the other engine at 3200. Topped 25 knots this way.

Any suggestions?? I bought biobor and will recirculate the diesel through a racor during the weekend.

Micky,
One of the basics is making sure the throttle arm on engine is hitting the stop on WOT.
Second is remove feed line at racor and blow back thru tank. Don't remember if that 34 has two or a single pickup tube for diesel of a seperate tank all together.
Third, check fuel smell, it may be clear but is it to clear. Anyway gasoline could have been added if it is a seperate tank. Do you have on the Island red dye fuel for off road?
A vacuum gauge on the racor will let you know if there in any blockage pre engine.
What about the fuel filter on the engine, has it been changed?
I've run into more unusable fuel line because of poor chinese construction where the inside collapses and outside looks fine. Fuel vacuum gauge is good for this or any type of vacuum gauge. You should not have any vacuum pulling into engine.
Any chance the props are different sizes?
Is low rpm engine running hotter?

You may have stated, are the turbos new? One engine failing to make boost?

Bruce wrote: ↑Nov 17th, '22, 09:31 Micky,
One of the basics is making sure the throttle arm on engine is hitting the stop on WOT.
Second is remove feed line at racor and blow back thru tank. Don't remember if that 34 has two or a single pickup tube for diesel of a seperate tank all together.
Third, check fuel smell, it may be clear but is it to clear. Anyway gasoline could have been added if it is a seperate tank. Do you have on the Island red dye fuel for off road?
A vacuum gauge on the racor will let you know if there in any blockage pre engine.
What about the fuel filter on the engine, has it been changed?
I've run into more unusable fuel line because of poor chinese construction where the inside collapses and outside looks fine. Fuel vacuum gauge is good for this or any type of vacuum gauge. You should not have any vacuum pulling into engine.
Any chance the props are different sizes?
Is low rpm engine running hotter?

The clear fuel is on the “good engine”. On the other engine, the throttle arm is making WOT (4200 in neutral). Fuel filter on the engine only has 2 seatrials on it but so did the racor and this one had to be replaced. Fuel hoses are new and I did blow into them 2 nights ago. Props are identical. I’m going to replace the engine filter and test again. The “good engine”
Is the one thatbis running colder.

If fuel condition is a possibility can you swap the lines to see if the problem follows? Or run both from the tank giving good performance. Or pull direct from a Jerry jug of good, clean, and fresh fuel.

Good tank:

Bad tank: Look at the "Water line" on the filter.

bertram31.com

1968 Hatteras 34 project

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