bertram31.com

trace elements

Tony,

I am split between builidng a mold from the existing frames or cold molding in place. Both have their merits.

Leaving the frame in place is just not an option for me. Feels like a half-assed fix.

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All, I know it has been beaten to death. I am changing course and thinking about glassing in my front windshield and following Capt. Pat's recommendations for the side windows. I don't believe the holmsey kit is still available. I am removing the entire front frame, so I don't want to just glass ove...

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Carl, That is a good point, but if you are not using all, or most of, the available horsepower available at a certain RPM, (incorrectly or inefficiently propped), then that may reduce your fuel burn, however, it would also reduce your theoretical cruise speed for a given RPM. The most efficient poin...

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I think that has to do with the variables. If they are testing in a boat, what kind of boat, how is it loaded, what is the temperature, and what about the winds and sea conditions? What is the boat's sweet spot, what is it compared to yours? I'd think motors would suck up different amounts of fuel ...

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The problem I always encounter is when you look at the published fuel burn curves for these engines published by the manufacturers, they never correlate with the fuel burn that is reported. I get everyone wants their fuel burn to be optimistic. Here is the link to yanamrs website with the 6lp specs ...

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Carl,

I am going to try and bend my own. A sheet of Plexi is $300, and I have bene quoted thousands for replacing the curved windows, so I am going to give it a shot on my own. In fact, I am removing the entire windshield and replacing all of the windows, they are all broken or crazed.

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I would like to build new window frames, but will probably end up refurbishing the aluminum window frames.

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Looks great, Jason. How did you build the interior cabinetry? Is is all coosa? Is it glassed, or just painted?

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Just finished up our maiden voyage on Blue Eagle to the Bahamas this past weekend. It was such an honor working on this special project with John Bayliss and the entire Bayliss Boatworks team, and is truly the fulfillment of a lifelong dream to finally own a 31'. I've admired them for almost 50 yea...

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dognduck wrote: ↑May 4th, '23, 15:36 Does any one run a Webasto Diesel heater? If so, how is it exhausted?

Curious about this also. I want to install one for striper season. Also going to install a bus heater running off engine water.

trace elements

When you say 350s for power I assume you mean small blocks? If so, how does the boat run with the small blocks?

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https://imgur.com/a/Yy8jtNk Try this

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Isn’t is the same engine as the Cummins 6.7? For some reason I’m thinking Cummins and FPT share similar architecture.

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Not sure if any of you guys are on facebook, but here is a photo of the boat nearing completion. Check out the waterline at the transom. Like I said before, this is a heavy boat with a lot of weight aft.

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=10 ... 4391590044

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Let me know how your boat runs when you get it in. Look forward to hearing about it.

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Impressive, Carl. Thanks for the kind words on the Mako. The only boat that could have ever made me give it up was the bertram 31. Agree on all of your points. Simply chalking it up to new wheel isn't completely fair. I never put much stock in the tip-speed theorey. I was a student of Dave Gerr at S...

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Second what bob said. Weight, clean bottom, and up stream obstacles of the prop are important conciderations when scrutinizing slip. Just out of curiosity, what were the rpm, gear ratio, prop and re-prop size of that mako? It was a 236 inboard. Had a 260 hp mercruiser 350 mated to a 1:1 trans. The ...

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Yeah, most of those places in the Manasquan are tight, but it is an awfully convenient spot.

Carver Boat works on the canal does a lot of work on 31s. Jahonson Boat Works is there also. Maybe they would be willing.

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I've read Dave Gerr (Naval Architect) book on propeller sizing and deisgn. He recommends maximizing diameter and using cup if you cant fit enough diameter. Still pondering this issue, but 25% slip seems way to high. When I rebuilt my onboard mako, I was able to get the slip down to 9% at cruise. Gai...

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How about Safe Harbor Crystal Point?

Nice venue on Manasquan, Transient Slips, hotel accross the street.

https://shmarinas.com/locations/safe-ha ... tal-point/

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We should create a separate thread for an NJ Rendevous. Couple of thoughts:

1. Manasquan
2. AC
3. Shark River
4. Raritan
5. Toms River
6. Barnegat

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Glad that you are getting close. It definitely goes over I had said in the past figure it out and triple it. Then you might come in close. I am 6 years in and still working on it you will feel great once you take your first ride. Then even better once you put your family on there and enjoy you firs...

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I think a set of sharrow props for outboards are in the range of 5k. It would probably be cheaper to do a diesel repower then buy a set of sharrow props for inboards.

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Thanks, Carl. My goal is just to improve fuel economy. I get 1.1 at 22 knots. Any improvement on that would be nice. Like I said, after calculating, I have a very high prop slip at cruise (25%). Getting this number below 20% or even 15% would be significant. I currently have Nibral 18x19 with some d...

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Thanks, Tony.

As I understand it, the 4 blades have more blade area and therefore more drag requiring a reduction in prop size to maintain correct RPMs. Same thing with the larger DAR props like ACME. Increased drag requires a reduction in pitch or diameter to keep up RPMs.

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I am looking at putting a pair of Acme props on my boat to improve the slip numbers. I currently am powered by 454s with 1.5 gears and 18x19 michigan propellers. I calculated a slip percentage of 25% at cruise. I know all of the old adages of 3 vs 4 blade, what are everyones thoughts on 3 vs 4 blade...

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You may have stated, are the turbos new? One engine failing to make boost?

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All,

Thought someone here might be interested. RTOs with 3k hours for 16k.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 883020666/

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I was reading about this yesterday. Per Garmin, you should be a minimum of 4-16" away from the dome depending on the model. Otherwise, they state it is safe.

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I know a year or two ago, a Viking billfish could be spec'd in the 1mil neighborhood. As much as I love a 31, anything over 150k is ridiculous compared to what else you can buy.

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I like the helm and transom seats. The exhaust port looks small depending on what power they went with. I have always believed the lines of the window frames contributed a lot to the looks of the boat and I do not think the windows look right. Beautiful restoration though.

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Such great news. We are all very happy for you.

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A Manasquan or Atlantic Highlands Rendevous would be nice.

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We need a Jersey Rendevous. There are so many 31s in Jersey.

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I saw that. Jaw dropping. Makes me want a bahai mar. Sucks sitting on the bridge while all the company is in the cockpit.

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This is going to be a heavy boat, with a lot of weight aft.

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I saw it. I Would like to think I would have more situational awareness than that, but in the heat of the moment with a fish on the line, who knows? You are correct that high-water alarms would have probably saved the boat. I am going to order one today.

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Wonder where they got the fiberglass windshield frame from. Would like to go with that.

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A friend of mine works for seakeeper. An immediate concern he had was loosing fuel capacity to make space, and the adequacy of the stock stringers to resist the twist and stress induced by the seakeeper.

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This boat has a seakeeper. I think they reduced fuel and put seakeeper in front of fuel tank. if you are doing better than 1.3 MPG, 180 gal is more than plenty for most. https://www.denisonyachtsales.com/yacht ... ia/8297993

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Anybody know of anywhere they are documenting the rebuild? Knowing Bayliss it is going to end up being one of the highest end refits ever completed.

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Rick, 1/2" coosa for the floor might be light depending on the span and laminate schedule. I'm trying to keep my weight as low as possible in my rebuild also. I used a lot of Nidacore (honeycomb) for panels and floors as it is incredibly light. I am installing my holding tank and water tank, each 15...

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Amberjack,

I think the lower helm is a worthwhile installation, although, when I asked, it seemed like a very unpopular topic. For the cold weather seasons where we do a lot of trolling and low-speed cruising, the lower helm, where you are dry and heated, is perfect.

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Pull a mold when you're done.

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Well, swith the strut pads done, on to the next item. Who has fiberglassed their pillasters? How did you do it?

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Thanks, looked like 5".

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Pete,

What size exhasuts are you going with for the 370s?

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I think Bob's advice of "DON'T RUN AGROUND", might be the best advice for all of us!

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Thank all for the input. Right, wrong, or otherwise, I ended up using coosa. I would have liked to use the solid fiberglass but along the lines of what Carl was saying, it just didn't fit into the timeline and budget. I think the coosa should be just fine, and surely better than the mulch that I rem...

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some years back one of our brothers whom owns a testing lab as well as a large manufacturing plant did us the service of testing a double layer of Coosa board versus a double layer of CDX plywood. well low and behold the plywood was the winner soooooo this is the procedure i took to replace the str...

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