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Bertram31.com General Bulletin Board
Re: Fighting chair - varnish vs. oil
Posted By: Vic Roy In Response To: Re: Fighting chair - varnish vs. oil (Harv)
Date: Monday, 10 January 2005, at 10:27 p.m.
Gary, I have always had a cover on the chair, but down here in the summer the temps under the cover must get to 150 at least, and it just bakes the varnish. Now that the cocktail cruise table is about ready, the chair will probably stay off the boat most of the time in the shop, so the finish should last longer.
Harv - the aluminum polish system starts with removing the failed anodizing. It will come off with just about any acid, like muriatic, but put a little Dawn dishwashing liquid (use the blue) in to make sure the acid wets the surface real good. I'm using some "Aluminum Brightener" that's reformed hydroflouric and hydrocloric, but acid is acid as long as you don't leave it on too long, and cut it with water about 50% for starters. Always pour acid into water, never vice versa - will blow up in your face. So take it easy stripping the alum. down to bare, a stiff nylon brush will help the process, then take some Flitz metal polish and some 0000 (that's 4 zero) steel wool and scrub it with the Flitz. You can get the 4 zero steel wool at most hardware stores. As you rub the alum, it will turn black with the Flitz on it. When the paste starts to dry up, take a paper towel with some alcohol or paint thinner and wipe it clean, then do it again. Once you have it smoothed out, wipe it down again, then take an orbital buffer with a towel bonnet and polish it, or you can do it by hand with a soft cloth, but the buffer works best. If you see any dullness, put a little auto paint compound on the alum and buff it. I use Turtle Wax compound from the dime store. Once the alum is mirror finish, wipe it off several times with a paper towel and alcohol or paint thinner and let it dry an hour or so, wipe it down again, then coat the bare alum. with Aluma-Glow, using some old t-shirt fabric to apply a couple of thin coats a few minutes apart, then let it dry for several days before subjecting it to impact or scratching.
I'm looking at my fighting chair gimbal support and it is a total mirror. The arm rests and striking rod holders have some dents from the years, but still overall mirror. It's a system that works, but remember, you have taken the hard anodizing off and your new surface is soft aluminum. The Aluma Glow is about as hard a clear coat as I've ever seen tho.
UV
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