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Bertram31.com General Bulletin Board
Re: Rub rail removal and stuff *LINK* *PIC*
Posted By: Capt Patrick McCrary In Response To: Rub rail removal and stuff (Dug)
Date: Monday, 15 November 2004, at 11:13 a.m.
Dug,
Clean out all trash, dirt, etc. from the hull/cap flange, & over drill all of the old screw holes to clean them.
Mask out above and below the joint, prime all surfaces, gaps, & holes to be filled with un-thickened epoxy. Wipe off all excess epoxy with a dry cloth. Let the prime coat cure to a tacky state. (Time will depend on the epoxy you're using, speed of hardener, & temperature.)
Mix a batch of thickened epoxy, (using cabosil or fumated silica only), and pack it into an empty caulking tube. Inject & fill all of the holes. With a putty knife use any remaining fill, or a fresh batch, to close up any gaps. Again clean up any excess BEFORE it sets up. Grinding ain't your friend...
By going this distance, you will have fresh meat for all of the new screws, regardless where they might land.
Initially, you will tack the rail up using common deck screws until you are happy with the fit. Next you'll wrap & tack your SS steel rub rail into place. Mark all of the holes for the SS rail that aren't already occupied by a tacking screw.
Remove the SS rail, having marked the pieces with where the will go back. Half way between each SS rail hole or mark, mark the placement for your flat head #12 x 1 1/2" SS screws that will hold the guard rail. Pre-drill, (3/16" bit) & counter sink these holes. Drill all the way through the fiberglass flange. Go back and re-drill all of the 3/16" holes to 1/4" in the PVC ONLY, so the screw will slide into place but not bite into the PVC.
It's gonna' take around 150+ screws for each the PVC and the SS rail. You'll use #8 x 1 1/2" oval head screws for the SS rail.
When you're ready to lock down the PVC finally, work one section at a time, getting the screws started, but loose, run some paintable caulk between the top and bottom of rail and the boat. Tighten the screws to very snug & move on to the next section.
The joints between sections can either be caulked or PVC welded... Any gaps, mainly at the under side of the bow and the transom corners can be built up with either caulk or epoxy. I prefer the epoxy method.
I finish up by taping out the joints, both top and bottom, leaving about 1/16" of boat and 1/16" of PVC exposed & make a final caulk line to blend everything in.
The basic "Get Started" info is linked below...
Best regards,
Patrick
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